IN 2006, when antique jewelry dealer Erie Basin first opened in Red Hook, Brooklyn, customers were coveting Georgian and Victorian pieces, said founder Russell Whitmore. Their thirst shifted to art deco in the 2010s. “Now I don’t see interest in any particular era as much as a desire for rareness,” said Whitmore, “Buyers are seeking out things they haven’t seen before.” Among the items he says have recently garnered feverish admiration on the dealer’s Instagram page: a surrealist 1970s ring shaped like a hand; a 19th-century wedding band engraved with stars; and a sculptural gold band by the Mexican modernist jeweler Antonio Pineda.
Interest has been growing both for vintage jewelry and new pieces fashioned from repurposed stones. See the chrysoprase-and-diamond earrings (below, far right), a makeover of a 19th-century brooch. One catalyst: “Buying vintage aligns with conscious consumerism,” said Mia Moross, founder of jewelry retailer the One I Love NYC. The market for old adornments over new, she pointed out, offers “sustainable and ethically responsible options.”
That thinking informed Los Angeles designer Eddie Borgo’s newly launched the Palms collection, which nestles rare, vintage diamonds in ornate filigrees of 18k recycled gold. “Plenty of wonderful, unique diamonds exist on the planet and can be upcycled,” said Borgo, who works with an antique-diamond dealer to find one-of-a-kind stones in striking cuts, many of which today’s stone-shaping technology can’t achieve. “Why would we not use them if we’re able to?” Borgo asked.
“People like scarcity,” said New York jewelry designer Roxanne Assoulin, underscoring Whitmore’s observation that shoppers crave one-of-a-kind pieces—whether attending a gala or posting on Instagram. Assoulin found a way to sate her clients’ hunger for singularity and celebrate her brand’s 40th anniversary. Her Out of Hibernation collection comprises 13 one-off pieces from her personal archive that she created in the 1990s and early 2000s. Among them: a pyramid bracelet (above) inspired by a long-ago find from the Brimfield Antique Flea Market in Brimfield, Mass. Cast in acrylic that resembles emeralds, the 14k-gold-plated bracelet is hand-soldered and, thus, incredibly lightweight.
Naturally, vintage adornments’ prices vary drastically depending on the material, designer, age and rarity. An unattributed crystal design from the ’60s, for instance, would cost far less than a certified Cartier diamond ring from 1920. New York store Old Jewelry, opened last year by Sarah Burns and Adam Caillier, predominantly sells vintage silver styles (like the modernist necklace above). Their prices range from about $95 to $1,200. “Because the coolest things tend to sell fast, we offer layaway,” said Burns. “That allows you to call ‘dibs’ on a piece for a deposit.”
If you’re new to shopping for jewelry that’s either antique or vintage (the former, said New York jewelry historian Marion Fasel, is at least 100 years old, the latter at least 20), start with reputable stores and dealers. Savvy buyers, though, can find dynamite designs, and bargains, at auctions and estate sales.
Pieces aren’t always the legitimate examples of a style or era a dealer claims them to be. To avoid getting scammed, New York gemologist and historian Anna Rasche suggests researching jewelry styles and periods you admire by digging into a book like “7,000 Years of Jewelry” by Hugh Tate, or scanning the online Antique Jewelry University, run by San Francisco’s Lang Antiques.
Instagram, however, has transformed the vintage jewelry business and a buyer’s reach, said Fasel. The awareness and visibility social media provides are at least partially fueling vintage’s present popularity. “You can scroll through your phone and find any number of cool pieces,” said Rasche.
Ask Tania Dunlop, 52, a contracts manager in Calgary, Canada, who keeps her eyes peeled for Victorian-era snake rings and feminine art nouveau confections. Dunlop has bought a bevy of pieces off Instagram from sellers such as Estate Jewelry Mama, Fortune Baby, and the Fab Nab. “It’s like-minded people right at my fingertips,” she said.
Look for established accounts (many are attached to retail stores), ask questions and request to see videos to gauge an item’s condition before buying. “It’s very important to trust the person you are buying from,” said Angela Sheldon, 58, a senior educator at the New-York Historical Society who has been ardently collecting everything from Victorian mourning jewelry to art deco rings since the early ’90s.
“The handmade craftsmanship of antique jewelry is amazing,” said Sheldon, adding that she loves buying items that other people have used. Old baubles might also appeal to shoppers’ notions of a more stable world, said Whitmore. “With uncertain times comes nostalgia for the past, and there’s a comfort in old things.” But even with all the respectable rationales for buying vintage, from sustainability to thoughtful connections to the past, it’s the “mine, all mine!” factor that truly drives the trend. As Rasche put it, “How fun is it to have a piece that nobody else can ever have?”
Sustainable accessories by Kelley Hollis are fantastically bold, intricate and playful designs that add a fun flair to your look. Her beautifully handcrafted pieces are made using vintage components and upcycled 22ct hand cast gold. With custom pieces available on commission, her sustainably crafted work is truly unique and captivating. Kelleyhollisjewelry.com
follow on Instagram @kelleyhollis
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I wasn’t quite sure if it was vintage or not, as the main bar and pendant looked antique, but the chains looked much more modern. Apparently my deductions were correct, as this necklace by Kelley Hollis is crafted from both vintage and modern parts. This Berkeley designer has been at it for about three and a half years. She takes vintage jewelry from the 1920’s-1960’s, restores and then upcycles them into these unique, one-of-a-kind creations. She also uses fabric pieces from restored fabric appliqués from India, circa the 1940s.
Colleen, my surprise brunch companion, purchased her necklace at the de Young Museum in San Francisco during their prestigious 30th annual Bouquets to Art exhibit. They invited a select group of artisan jewelers to show each of the 6 days at the exhibit. What an honor!
If your personal style veers toward the Romantic, vintage-inspired side, then Kelley Hollis’ line is right up your alley!
http://www.jewelryfashiontips.com/kelley-hollis-jewelry-designer/
]]>Thursday's featured artisan is Kelley Hollis from Berkeley. Hollis is inspired by her lifelong love of vintage jewelry and the streets and shops of the Left Bank of Paris. She is dedicated to providing unique vintage designs that have been carefully restored or reset as new pieces. The vintage works are well constructed with notably higher quality materials than modern-day costume jewelry. Most pieces are of at least 14-karat gold plate or silver, and may include molded glass, bakelite, or enamel. All jewelry is intricately detailed and dates from the 1920s through the 1960s.
http://deyoung.famsf.org/calendar/bouquets-art-artisan-trunk-show-featuring-kelley-hollis
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